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Myth #1
- Paraffinic oils cause engine sludge. Oils
from paraffin-based crude are loaded with wax and create
engine sludge. Paraffin base stocks cause sludge. "x"
Brand of motor oil causes sludge, varnish and/or engine
deposits. “Paraffinic” motor oils cause wax-like
deposits on the underside of the oil fill cap.
Fact:
There are two basic types of crude oil, naphthenic and
paraffinic. Most conventional engine lubricating oils
today are made from paraffinic crude oil. Paraffinic
crude oil is recognized for its ability to resist
thinning and thickening with temperature, as well as its
lubricating properties and resistance to oxidation
(sludge forming tendencies). In the refining process,
the paraffinic crude oil is broken down into many
different products. One of the products is wax, and
others are gasoline, kerosene, lubricating oils,
asphalt, etc. Virtually every oil marketer uses
paraffinic base stocks in blending its engine oil
products. Many people believe the term paraffinic to be
synonymous with wax. Some have the misconception that
paraffinic oils will coat the engine with a wax film
that can result in engine deposits. This is not true.
The confusion exists because paraffinic molecules can
form wax crystals at low temperatures. In lubricating
oils, this wax is removed in a refining process called
dewaxing. Wax is a premium product obtained from crude
oil, and in order to ensure that we produce the highest
quality base stocks available, Havoline removes the
maximum amount of wax possible during the refining
process. The end result is a motor oil product
formulated with premium lubricating base oil.
Myth #2 - If the oil turns dark or
black quickly, it's no good. You can tell the condition
of oil by the look, smell or color of it. Dirty (black)
motor oil means the oil is breaking down.
Fact: A common
misconception is that high quality motor oil should come
out of an engine looking clean at the time of an oil
change. Nothing could be further from the truth. If the
oil is doing its job of cleaning the engine, then it
should be dirty when it is drained. Havoline motor oil
will start looking dirty a short time after it is put to
use. In the case of diesel engines, the oil will look
dirty within a few hours of operation. These are signs
that the motor oil is doing its job of keeping soot,
dirt, and other combustion contaminants in suspension to
be carried to the filter or removed from the crankcase
when the oil is changed. Havoline motor oils have been
formulated to hold these contaminants in suspension
until they can be removed with an oil and filter change.
Myth #3 - Using synthetic motor oil
will void a manufacturer's warranty.
Fact:
As long as the synthetic product meets the viscosity and
performance requirements outlined in the vehicle’s
owner’s manual, using synthetic oil will not interfere
with the warranty coverage. However, one exception would
be the rotary (Wankel) engine used in certain Mazda
vehicles, which recommend against the use of synthetic
oil in that particular engine.
Myth #4 - Once you start using
synthetic motor oil you cannot go back to conventional
oil.
Synthetic and conventional engine oils can't be mixed,
or else they react and cause engine problems.
Fact:
As long as the synthetic motor oil product and
conventional motor oil product meet the viscosity and
performance requirements outlined in the vehicle’s
owner’s manual, you may interchange them with each
other.
Myth #5 - Synthetic oil causes engine
leaks. Synthetic motor oils eat gasket material and
cause engines to leak. Synthetic motor oils affect
engine seals and result in excessive oil leakage.
Synthetic oil can’t be used on high-mileage engines.
Synthetic and synthetic blend motor oils cannot be used
in older or high-mileage vehicles.
Fact:
Synthetic oils do not cause engine oil leaks.
Deteriorated and hardened seals and gasket material
cause engine oil leaks. If the seals are already leaking
with conventional motor oil, they will leak with
synthetic oil. If the seals are in good condition,
synthetic oils may be used in high-mileage engines.
Myth #6 - Engines have to be “broken
in” before using synthetic oil. I need to break in my
engine with non-detergent oil. If I use regular oil or
synthetic oil in a new engine, my engine will take
longer to break in.
Fact:
It was common years ago for engine manufacturers to
recommend non-detergent oils for engine break-in. This
was when the pistons used cast-iron “square-faced” rings
and the rings needed to wear some to “seat” into the
engine. With today’s technology of oils and engine
manufacturing, engine manufacturers no longer recommend
the use of non-detergent oils for the break-in period.
In fact, engines today are factory-filled with high
quality API SL performance motor oil, which contains
high levels of detergents and dispersant additives.
Myth #7 - Synthetic oil lasts longer
than conventional oil or extends the oil drain interval.
You can go longer (i.e., 25000 miles) with synthetic
oils. Using synthetic motor oils can double your oil
drain interval. Synthetic motor oils can be used twice
as long as conventional motor oils. Changing only your
oil filter every 3000 miles and topping off the oil can
extend drain intervals.
Fact:
Havoline does not recommend extending oil drain
intervals beyond the “severe service” maintenance
interval of three months or 3,000 miles, whichever comes
first. Also, we are unaware of any automobile
manufacturer in the United States that currently
recognizes using any synthetic oil beyond the
recommended oil change intervals outlined in their
owner’s manual. We emphasize severe service since the
majority of motor vehicles are operated in severe
driving conditions such as short trips (under 10 miles),
dusty or sandy conditions, cold weather, extended idling
periods, trailer towing or other harsh conditions. Under
ideal conditions, however, such as a dust-free climate,
highway driving, light loads, perfect engine
performance, etc., the oil drain interval may be
extended to the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended
“normal service” period (generally between 3,000 to
7,500 miles). Contamination by normal wear particles,
water, fuel, and other combustion by-products, as well
as additive depletion, are the main reasons for changing
conventional oils on a regular basis. Synthetic oils are
equally susceptible to this problem. The only way to
remove these contaminants is to change the oil and
filter within manufacturers’ recommended intervals.
While it is desirable to change the oil filter before it
plugs up because of dirt and contaminant build-up, it is
nearly impossible to detect when that condition exists
or is about to occur. Regardless of how good an oil
filter appears to be, it only makes good sense to change
the oil filter at every oil change.
Myth #8 - Heavier is better. Thicker is
better. You can tell the viscosity of oil by feel
(between your thumb and fore finger). “I’ve used
straight 30 weight for years.” Motor oil viscosity is
not that big a deal. Thicker motor oil is better for
your engine and increases engine life. One must use SAE
20W-50 motor oil if the vehicle has over 100,000 miles
on it. SAE 5W-20 is too thin to protect the engine.
Synthetic SAE 5W-30 is thinner than conventional SAE
5W-30 motor oil. Straight weight oils (i.e., SAE 30)
give better protection than multi-viscosity oils.
Fact:
There are two main reasons why vehicle manufacturers
recommend thinner or lighter viscosity grades of motor
oil. First, a gain in fuel economy can be achieved with
lower viscosity oil. At cold temperatures and at start
up, lower viscosity oil will reduce internal engine
friction. About 10% of the engine's horsepower is lost
to internal engine friction, resulting in a drop in fuel
economy. Additionally, vehicle manufacturers are
struggling to meet Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE)
requirements set by the government and avoid paying
associated fines. Any fuel mileage improvement
associated with a lubricant use would be good for them,
and lighter viscosity grade motor oil will make a
difference.
Second,
thinner motor oil is essential for easy starting,
particularly in cold weather, and for proper lubrication
once the engine starts. Today's smaller engines have
smaller clearances and tighter tolerances between moving
parts, and there have been some instances where camshaft
damage has occurred because of inadequate lubrication
with higher viscosity grades in colder weather. Thinner
oils, such as SAE 5W-30, will flow faster than heavier
motor oils during start-up and initial engine operation
and will help protect the engine from excessive wear.
Multigrade oil will also offer the same high temperature
protection as single grade motor oil. Always check your
vehicle owner's manual to select the proper viscosity
grade based on the expected temperature range. The
viscosity grade(s) recommended by the vehicle
manufacturer depend somewhat on engine design. Engine
manufacturers have spent considerable time and expense
experimenting with different viscosity grades and have
indicated in the owner's manual the grades they feel
will best protect the engine at specific temperatures.
While one manufacturer's engine may require an SAE
10W-30, another manufacturer's engine may require an SAE
5W-20 viscosity grade. This is likely due to different
tolerances within the engine or other engine design
factors.
Myth #9 - All 2-cycle oils are the
same.
Fact:
Generally 2-cycle oils formulated specifically for
air-cooled engines, such as chain saws, may contain
additive chemistry not recommended for water-cooled
engines, such as outboard motors. Ensure that the
product you use meets the equipment manufacturer’s
requirements. Some oil marketers formulate products to
meet both water- and air-cooled engine requirements.
Myth #10 - You can't use motor oil in a
manual transmission.
Fact:
Fluids recommended for manual transmissions/transaxles
vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and are dependent
upon application. The type of fluid recommended for a
given unit will depend on a number of variables which
include the low temperature fluidity required, the
amount of gear wear protection needed, the effects of
the fluid on synchronizers and the
transmission/transaxle. Some transmission manufacturers
may require motor oil to be used in the manual
transmission. Other fluids used may be ATF, gear oil or
a special manual transmission fluid, depending on
variables previously mentioned. Always check the owner’s
manual to ensure the fluid being used has the proper
performance requirements.
Myth #11 - Oil is oil … ATF is ATF. All
oils are the same.
Fact:
Motor oils and Automatic Transmission Fluids (ATF) are
formulated differently. Motor oil is formulated to
withstand the harsh combustion environment of an engine,
while ATF is formulated to provide specific properties
for a transmission.
Myth #12 - Adding a quart of ATF the
day before an oil change will clean your engine. ATF
added to the motor oil will clean the engine due to the
high levels of detergent in ATF.
Fact:
ATF does not contain detergent chemistry. ATF does
contain dispersants, which have properties similar to
detergents. But ATF is not formulated to withstand the
combustion environment inside the engine. Havoline
recommends that you keep the fluids where they belong:
motor oil in the crankcase, and automatic transmission
fluid in the transmission.
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